A while back I bought a pretty black and white cotton and silk fabric and started to sew a wiksten tank. I never finished it because I got side tracked by other projects and probably cause I was stumped on how I was going to create a long sleeve for the tank, cause what I really wanted was a flowing long sleeve shirt for the fall.
Well the fall is here, so I decided it was high time I finish it.
I drafted a sleeve pattern by placing a piece of paper underneath the front pattern and tracing the armhole (or armscye). Make sure to straighten out the top part of the pattern, cause otherwise when you cut out your fabric it won’t fit your shirt. Yes, I did that first… I probably should have folded the paper in two, but I guess I like learning the hard way 😉 For the length & shape of your sleeve pattern, you can either use a shirt you already have or you can draft one from your measurements. I chose to draft a full length sleeve from my measurements. Don’t forget to include a seam allowance in your pattern.
Next, fold your fabric in two, place your pattern on the grainline and cut out 2 sleeves.
Attach the sleeve to the tank, right sides of the fabric together (slide the sleeve in the armhole right sides together) pinning along the seams being sure not to pucker the fabric or create pleats. I did this several times cause my sleeves were too wide. Finally I remembered that I had adjusted the tank when I made it (taking in the side seams), so I adjusted my sleeves to the tank and it worked!
To attach the bias tape start in the back, start pinning by unfolding the bias tape right sides of the fabric together. Be sure to leave about an inch of bias tape at the beginning and end to allow for you to sew it together and finish attaching the bias tape, once you have pinned it all around the neckline.
Attach the two ends as shown below, cut off the excess bias tape, and iron the ends flat. Sew the remaining bias tape to the shirt. Fold the bias tape up and iron so it lays flat. Then fold over and pin in place as shown.
Repeat the same steps above for the sleeves. I finally decided to sew 3/4 sleeves with a bias trim.