The Dress : Part 2 – The Belladone

Jungle Dress Bodice Front

It’s back to work on The Dress, and to change the bodice of the Belladone from Deer & Doe to a princesse seam bodice (If you missed The Dress: Part 1 click here) and for a first finished version of the Belladone.

I used a Burda princess seam bodice (from a Burdastyle dress pattern), which I cut in a size 38.  I sewed up a first muslin for fit and decided to move the bust seams so that they would sit about 1 cm away from my apex. I made a muslin to double check for fit and it looks like this is the one 🙂 (Sorry about the multi-colored fabrics, but I guess this allows to clearly visualize the lines of the bodice).

Burda Princess Bodice Muslin
Princess Bodice Side View

For this first Belladone with the new bodice I decided to made a v-neck with a closed back in a jungle leaf print satin cotton.  I have been waiting a long time for the project for this fabric and it’s finally here. (The dress could you use better ironing, my apologies 🙂

Jungle print Dress
Jungle Dress Back View

I made several other adjustments such as moving the zip to the side, which I find prettier and hides the zipper.  To do that I simply removed the back seam allowance (which became the fold) on my pattern and cut it as one piece on the fold.

Side zipper

On the skirt, I ended up cutting a size 36 of the Belladone (lengthening it to the knee as I did on my muslin) which turned out to be the more accurate size for me (I did double check the hip measurement to make sure).   I also moved the back darts and fronts pleats placement so that they would align with the bodice.

Jungle Dress Bodice Front
Pocket detail

I made 3cm (+ 1cm seam allowances) interfacing for the neckline and armcyes. They finish the dress nicely, but create some thickness. Next time around, I will make a single interfacing for the neckline and armcyes.


So, there it is, my version of the Belladone, slightly adapted to my creative expression and my body 😉 I really like how this turned out and I absolutely love the fabric. This will definitely be a dress for work this summer.

So, the creative (and learning) process continues. So far, I have tested :

  • my bodice, which I can say is confirmed;
  • the interfacing, which I will change to one piece for both the front and back
  • the skirt – I like the length, and it looks great in this version, but since I’m starting to lean more and more towards silk, I’m thinking that the skirt merits more volume for such a luxurious fabric.

Stay tuned for The Dress: Part 3, when I share the next steps my creative process.



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