The Roger Trench


I am finally getting around to sewing the Roger Trench coat from République du Chiffon. I had purchased this pattern some time ago with the intention of sewing a raincoat for the Spring, but Spring has long come and gone. Since winter weather is starting to kick in, instead I decided to sew a warm version. In my efforts to stop buying more and more fabrics, and instead use all the stacks of fabric I have purchased over the last years, I decided to use this tartan wool blend fabric I had.

The pattern: I only had a 150cm x 150cm piece of this tartan fabric, which is short for a coat, so I dug through my scraps and found a wool blend in a dark gray (almost black) fabric to use for the collar, pockets and jacket interfacing.

Overall the pattern was pretty easy to follow, except for some vocabulary I was discovering (in French), but this IS my first coat ?. There was also an issue with the collar and collar stand (pied de col in French), which failed to indicate that the pieces needed to be cut on the fold. Luckily I had enough to cut 4 pieces and sew them together to complete the collar. ?

My adjustments to the pattern:

  • I didn’t have the full length of the dark gray fabric for the front interfacing piece, So I cut the pattern piece in 2 and assembled it.
  • I omitted the panel to cover the buttons
  • Since the fabric was thick, I topstitched :
    • the length of the front of the coat so that the interfacing would lie flat,
    • the pockets and the collar,
    • the edge of the cuffs and the bottom hem of the coat.

I’m very happy with how it turned out. It’ll be perfect for this winter. The mix of fabric works well, and it came together easily despite the thickness of the fabric. The only issue I had was with the buttonholes. I ended up having to sew them by hand. I am also particularly happy with how despite the limited amount of fabric, I was able to align the pattern on the fabric both in the front and back. ?

Cuff detail
Side view

For the lining, I followed the Michelle blazer tutorial (République du Chiffon) tutorial as indicated, which is easy to follow and turned out perfectly. This tutorial will be useful for future blazer and coat projects. You can see the assembled front interfacing in the pic below. It turned out nicely and both sides are aligned.

Front lining
Back lining
Pocket detail

Now all I need is a pretty « handmade » label to sew into my new coat ?


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